(This post was moved from Lady Janes Wardrobe)
This costume was made in 1994 while taking the Theatrical Costume Advanced Technician's Certificate at SIT East Sydney. It was supervised by Lyn Heal, head of wardrobe, Opera Australia and using Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen" as a guide. This was my "theatre" major work, one of 5 required over the 2 years, and included combinations, corset, bustle cage, petticoat and then the 2 piece dress. I made the hat at an advanced millinery course in 1996 to go with the outfit.
Technical details
Main fabric is $3 per metre mauve taslon taffeta (I was a struggling student you know, and our budget for the whole outfit was $250)
Contrast fabric is black cotton velvet. Lace trim is in 2 parts, dark purple lace was $1 metre at the craft show while white insertion lace on top of that was 50c metre and is threaded with 8mm black velvet ribbon.
Most expensive part was coutil for mounting bodice, and black nylon organza-like fabric which I can't recall the proper name of, which stiffens the skirt drapery.
There are hook and eye fastenings down the centre front bodice under the lace and a side front fastening on the skirt with the drape over the top. It was made for a standard size 10 TAFE mannequin so the sleeves are a bit short on the model in the photo. The bodice has plastic artificial bones on each seam.
The bustle cage underneath is made of calico with crinoline steel half circles at the back for support as seen in Hunnisett. The petticoat worn over the cage is cream taffeta with 2" crin (nylon horsehair braid) in the hem of the ruffles which cascade down the back. The bustle petticoat and skirt both have ties on the inside going from side back seams to tie across on the back of cage to maintain the "swept back" shape required. There are 5 large purple lace bows down both sides of the drapes, and at the "tail" at the back of the bodice and I embroidered purple silk roses on a black velvet oval and mounted it in a silver brooch to pin at the neck. The matching straw boater style hat is fine navy straw with a mauve pleated satin hat band with bow, a net veil and little velvet flowers on the front. This is probably one of my favourite costumes I've ever made, in my all-time favourite colours.
Gorgeous! I love purple and admire your seamstressing and historical faithfulness. Was the color chosen just for color's sake or was it partial mourning?
ReplyDeleteThe colour was chosen because as well as being my favourite I was making a body of work for my College course display and all 5 costumes had shades of purple somewhere. Luckily purple is also historically correct for this period.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment.