A new gown for Emmeline

Emmeline Macarthur, daughter of Australian wool pioneer John, lived for several years at Hambledon Cottage on the Elizabeth Farm estate at Rose Hill NSW. This mannequin was found derelict in a junk shop and renovated to use to display clothing at the cottage many years ago. This week we changed the display and I installed one of my repro dresses made about 5 years ago and a new large fichu and new day cap.

The patterns of the elements of the dress were found in "Period Costume for Stage and Screen" by Jean Hunnisett 1800 - 1900. I chose the Imbecile sleeves, so called because they are ridiculously large. I made cotton sleeve plumpers which tie into the dropped sleeve openings and are stuffed with toy filling. The neckline of the dress sits on the point of the shoulder and has a thin draw cord through the neck binding to allow it to be drawn up to the right size. The main bodice seams are self fabric piped and the fastenings at the back are hooks and eyes. The dress fabric is a printed cotton with bunches of berries which read as large shaggy dots at a distance.

The day cap pattern came straight from the contemporary source "The Workwoman's Guide" by A Lady published in 1838. I used bleached calico for the body of the cap and a fine muslin for the frill. The crown of the cap is lined with a coarse net as I didn't want to starch the cap which may attract insects to the mannequin at the Cottage.

I drafted the fichu pattern myself based on descriptions found at various places. With a tight deadline to meet I made it up in fine muslin fabric with a small machine stitched blanket stitch on the inside raw edge of the narrow hem. The neck edge is on the bias grain, giving a nice fold over around the neck edge as seen in many photos of extant garments. In the future I'll try to source an embroidered fabric to re-make this, or have a go at doing it myself by hand. It wouldn't be difficult, just time consuming.

Filling in the neckline under the fichu is a cotton muslin chemisette with a rolled collar. The pattern was sourced from "Patterns of Fashion 1800 - 1860" by Janet Arnold. A small flat wooden button covered in fabric and a thread loop fastens the neckline.

I'd been making a corded petticoat to go under this gown, but again time beat me. I've put that aside to finish and add at a later date. I've been taking progressive photos so will post details when it's finished. The gown now sits atop 2 petticoats, one with five 6 inch frills and the other with a 10 inch frill. Both are gathered into 1 inch wide waistbands with tape ties and are made of unwashed cotton calico fabric. Again no starch was used although the petticoats of the time would have been heavily starched to keep them in the dome shape.

A laminated explanatory sign hangs discretely from the waist of the mannequin and can be lifted and handed to visitors to read. On the rear of the sign is an educational photo of the underwear of the time on a museum mannequin.